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Comando G Tumba del Rey Moro
2023Sierra de Gredos(12 fl. beschikbaar)
R. Parker: 100/100
423,50 € |
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R. Parker: 100/100
The 2023 Tumba del Rey Moro is stunning and firing on all cylinders. It's incredibly aromatic, floral and elegant, really open, expressive and nuanced, high-pitched, narrow and incredibly long. The grapes were perfect, and it shows in the wine, which is clean, precise, chiseled and symmetric. The palate is equally captivating, really gobsmacking; it has nerve and tension, with great finesse, super fine, satiny tannins and great length. It has to be the finest vintage for this stunning wine. It made my heart beat faster. |
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Comando G El Tamboril
2023Sierra de Gredos(24 fl. beschikbaar)
R. Parker: 98/100
215,- € |
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R. Parker: 98/100
The 2023 El Tamboril Tinto showed very closed and austere when poured, but it proved to be a super elegant version of this vineyard. It has the cold character from Navatalgordo with very fine tannins this year. It matured in a larger foudre, and volume will grow again in 2025, as they have increased the surface area they own there. The wine has incredible tension and purity, without any fat; it's all about balance, elegance and nuance. It has the Navatalgordo identity with more finesse. It's approachable but should benefit from a couple of years more in bottle. |
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Comando G Las Iruelas
2023Sierra de Gredos(11 fl. beschikbaar)
R. Parker: 98/100
215,- € |
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R. Parker: 98/100
The 2023 Las Iruelas was marked by a hailstorm in April. It has a paler color (like 2012 and 2017) and a more fragile profile. It comes in at 14% alcohol, a full 1% less than the 2022, and it has very good freshness and reflects the cooler year, with herbal green chili pepper, capers, pine needles, a sensation of Mediterranean forest floor, dry yellow flowers and a core of decayed flowers, with hints of wild strawberries and a peppery twist. It's super fine-boned and mineral and has lots of finesse, with chalky, powdery tannins and a supple, almost salty finish. It's very complete, a notch above Las Umbrías, with finesse and an ethereal character but with lots of energy and oomph. Together with Rumbo al Norte, it's the more homogenous vineyard, showing less differences in quality from year to year. |
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Comando G Las Umbrias
2023Sierra de Gredos(9 fl. beschikbaar)
R. Parker: 97+/100
215,- € |
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R. Parker: 97+/100
The 2023 Las Umbrías goes back to the ethereal profile of the cooler years, a wine of tension and fine-grained tannins. It rained during the flowering, and the yields were lower. It has a pale and bright ruby color and a nuanced nose, open, expressive and clean, with some notes of soy sauce intermixed with aromas of wild herbs and flowers (violets). The palate has the ethereal character and the energy of an iron fist in a velvet glove. It's super tasty and makes you salivate. |
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Peña la Mora
1er Cru 2023(60 fl. beschikbaar)
99,- €
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La Breña
1er Cru 2023(60 fl. beschikbaar)
99,- €
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Rozas
1er Cru 2023(60 fl. beschikbaar)
64,80 €
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96+/100
The nose of the 2023 Peña la Mora 1er is truly spectacular. It comes from a lieu-dit in the village of Navatalgordo where they produce the El Tamboril; in fact, El Tamboril is in the lieu-dit of Peña la Mora. The wine is floral, herbal and perfumed with notes of rose hip, and it's crunchy, precise, crystalline, kaleidoscopic and symmetric. It has the stony and austere character and mouthfeel of the quartz, dry dust and cold white soil sensations reminiscent of some limestone wines with much finer tannins than this village delivers in warmer years. This year, there are finer tannins, a smaller size of the grain. The wine matured in two oak foudres over two winters.
97/100
The red 2023 La Breña 1er from the village of Villanueva de Ávila contains all the grapes from this lieu-dit—which is now officially in the appellation, so other producers can make wine with the name—except for a 500-liter barrel, so that makes La Breña a single-vineyard wine. It's very Villanueva, gentle and elegant, with finesse and perfume, very silty tannins and some herbal sensations, defined by the finesse and the nuance. It's medium-bodied, with a very long aftertaste marked by some sensations reminiscent of bitter cherries; there's nothing sweet about it. It opens up nicely in the glass.
95/100
The 2023 Rozas 1er is a selection from three vineyards in the village of Rozas de Puerto Real, the only wine from there, as the village wine has been discontinued. There's been a confusion over the years between the village wine and the 1er from Rozas, so it should be clear from here on. It comes from the south valley of Gredos, a place where they feel the wines need a little more alcohol to achieve balance, and this comes in at 14.5%. This is pure iron, with notes of blood, red fruit and some silty sensations with hints of talcum powder when the wine is in contact with the air in the glass. It has some meaty undertones, moving in the direction of Las Iruelas, with a narrow mouthfeel and an herbal character. This wine and all the 1er bottlings spend two winters before they are bottled. It started a little closed and bloomed with time in the glass. This is superb. |
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Witte wijn, opgevoed met flor ”Jura-style”
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Camino del Pilar
(50 cl) 2022(24 fl. beschikbaar)
69,15 €
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R. Parker: 96/100
Surprisingly enough, the 2022 Camino del Pilar Crianza Biológica has a paler and brighter color than the 2021 I tasted next to it. Yields were a lot lower in 2022, so there was only one Sherry butt, and the wine shows more flor character; it's spicier, more interesting and has more depth and complexity, and surprisingly enough, it's also fresher and finer-boned. Only 719 half-liter bottles were produced. |
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